东坡巾源流：古代士人对帽的接受与改造

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Abstract Hat has a long history in China, but was first worn by the northern ethnic minorities. No later than the Pre-Qin period, "High top hat" has been accepted by the people of the Central Plains. However, the mainstream context in the clothing system of Han and before of the Central Plains advocated the guan while despising the hat, treating “high top hat” as the symbol of barbarian. After experiencing the baptism of the Wei-Jin style and the ethnic integration of the Southern and Northern Dynasties, the literati began to wear hats as elegant. “High top hat” began to be widely designed and transformed to have significant Chinese characteristics by literati, popular in all social classes. Among them, a sort of hat with upward brim and edge pointing at the eyebrows already has the original elements of the “Dongpo hat”. In the Tang and Five Dynasties, “high top hat” evolved black gauze hat with surrounding brim, vertical middle edge, flat top and rich literati interest, the literati transformation of the hat is then finalized. In the Northern Song Dynasty, there were many names of black gauze hats. Although the overall shape was consistent, the details of the outline and height were different, among which a sort of square high hat with short brim and narrow width on the bottom was especially liked by SU Shi. Due to SU Shi’s great influence, this square hat had the special name of “Zizhan style” and “Dongpo hat” respectively in the Song and Ming Dynasties, and was said was invented by SU Shi by folk. In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the “Dongpo hat” had become one of stylized symbols in SU Shi’s portraits. It not only had a profound influence among the ancient Chinese literati group, but also spread to the countries in the East Asian cultural circle such as Vietnam, Japan, Korea and so on, producing many variants with rich national characteristics. The formation, transformation and dissemination of “Dongpo hat” highlight the particularity and richness of the pluralistic and integrated pattern of the Chinese nation.

Key words： ancient literati Dongpo hat Zizhan style SU Shi high top hat black gauze hat headgear system

Received: 20 November 2022

PACS:	K23
	G127

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Cite this article:

WU Bi. The Filiation of the “Dongpo Hat”：The Acceptance and Transformation of Hats by the Ancient Literati[J]. , 2023, 40(2): 131-143.

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https://xb.szu.edu.cn/EN/ OR https://xb.szu.edu.cn/EN/Y2023/V40/I2/131

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